"A City in a State of Splendid Decay"

Venice

Venice is a city in northeastern Italy located on a group of 118 small islands separated by canals and linked by bridges.  It is located in the marshy Venetian Lagoon, which stretches along the shoreline, between the mouths of the Po and the Piave Rivers. Venice is renowned for the beauty of its setting, its architecture and its artworks. The city in its entirety is listed as a World Heritage Site along with its lagoon.

Sunny and warm and pink and bright - those are the words that come to mind when I think of Venice. I found it beautifully old, unlike any other place, and full of fun, new experiences.  My first gondola ride, my first Italian gelato (the real stuff!), my first city with no motorized vehicles, my first time riding a water taxi, and my first Catholic mass – in Italian no less.  

The architecture was lovely.  The exterior of the Doge’s Palace, with its beautiful pink and white herringbone brick pattern was just plain pretty.  San Marco’s Basilica took my breath away with its shining gold interior.  The labyrinth of buildings, streets, bridges, were confusing but not concerning, as all signs lead back to St. Mark’s square.  Getting lost is appropriate and necessary in Venice. Time is of little importance as you watch people and shop and eat and take pictures and wander and observe.  Yes, it was a nice, sunny break from all of our busyness.  Thank you Venice.

While its population is small, Venice attracts as many tourists as any major city.  With 12 million visitors per year, Venice rivals Europe’s major capitals (Paris and London) in popularity.  Venice is not only sinking but shrinking—its population is half what is was 30 years ago.

Some recent studies have suggested that the city is no longer sinking, but this is not yet certain; (especially since I found data stating it is sinking at a rate of up to 2mm or 0.08” per year), therefore, a state of alert has not been revoked.  In May 2003 construction work began on the MOSE Project(Modulo Sperimentale Elettromeccanico), an experimental model for evaluating the performance of hollow floatable gates; the idea is to fix a series of 78 hollow pontoons to the sea bed across the three entrances to the lagoon. When tides are predicted to rise above 110 cm, the pontoons will be filled with air, causing them to float and block the incoming water from the Adriatic Sea. Other measures such as coastal reinforcement, the raising of quaysides and paving and improvement of the lagoon are being completed in conjunction with MOSE. As of June 2013, 75% of the project has been completed.  Its estimated completion date is 2016.  I sure hope this beautiful, historic city is successfully saved.

Another reason to love Venice?  Ryan FINALLY joined us!  We are so happy to be reunited after 5 weeks and 1 day.  The extra day is compliments of Delta Airlines for delaying a flight.  It was brutal being so excited to see him, and then have to wait one more day.  Somehow we survived, and are now together, enjoying Venice as a family.  This feels right and good and perfect.

Kids on a bridge in Venice, need I say more?

John:        Venice was a very interesting place. First of all, it was easy to racially profile people based off what they were selling. For example, Africans sold knock-off handbags, Asians sold flowers and toys, and Italians sold paintings and masks. I found it interestingly funny.  Besides that, Venice was a city in a state of splendid decay. It looked like everything was slowly falling apart, which it kind of is.

My favorite places were the Doge’s Palace and San Marco Basilica. The Doge’s Palace was where the elected rulers of the Republic of Venice ruled for centuries. It had grand meeting halls and the largest oil painting IN THE WORLD! It was a palace worthy of even the snobbiest American president (which most certainly was not LBJ). San Marco Basilica was a beautiful church covered with amazingly detailed mosaics. They were all over the walls and the ceilings. And the Venetian marble! It covered the lower walls and the exquisite floor. It was one of my favorite places I ever visited.

John enjoying his cuttlefish.  Yes, it turned his mouth black.

We went to a Catholic Mass in Venice. It was very interesting due to the fact that it was all in Italian! We tried to go to an English Mass but we were off by an hour. Nonetheless, it was very enjoyable to learn how our Catholic brethren worship. I enjoyed it immensely. Italian is a beautiful language (except when the loud Italians shout it too loudly.)

 Also, while in Venice I tried cuttlefish pasta, which was delicious, even if cuttlefish is overly chewy (and black). And the chocolate gelato was divine!

The Doge's Palace was the residence of the Doge of Venice, the supreme authority of the Republic of Venice, opening as a museum in 1923.  Napoleon invaded Venetian territory, and French ideas of citizens' rights caused the populace to reevaluate its thousand year long aristocratic rule. In 1797 the last Doge ("doazh," or duke) abdicated, ushering in a period of French and Austrian rule. In 1866, Venice joined the Kingdom of Italy.

The largest chamber in the Doge’s Palace, the Chamber of the Great Council, is not only the largest chamber in the Doge’s Palace, but also one of the largest rooms in Europe.  It is decorated with a fresco by Guariento, which measures 53 meters long by 25 meters wide.  Here, meetings of the Great Council were held, the most important political body in the Republic. A very ancient institution, this Council was made up of all the male members of patrician Venetian families over 25 years old, irrespective of their individual status, merits or wealth. This was why, in spite of the restrictions in its powers that the Senate introduced over the centuries, the Great Council was seen as a bastion of Republican equality.

Immediately below the ceiling runs a frieze with portraits of the first 76 doges, commissioned from Tintoretto, most of these paintings are in fact the work of his son.  Each Doge holds a scroll bearing a reference to his most important achievements, while Doge Marin Faliero who attempted a coup d’état in 1355, is represented simply by a black cloth as a traitor to the Republic. One of the long walls, behind the Doge’s throne, is occupied by the longest canvas painting in the world, Il Paradiso, which Tintoretto and his workshop produced between 1588 and 1592.

Resting from the blazing Venetian sun, until next time.

Edelweiss is Not Just in Austria

Bavaria

       Bavaria is quintessential Germany; fairytale castles, breathtaking Alps, and traditional German food and clothing – Lederhosen and Dirndl - abound in this state in southern Germany.  It is scenic, charming and the most culturally rich part of the country.  

Menus with aprons and Lederhosen on the cover - cool!

We headed south for a delightful stay in Garmish-Partenkirchen, a quaint town surrounded by the Alps and castles.  My brother, a doctor in the Air Force, secured housing for us at Edelweiss, a resort for American servicemen that was a little bit of America right in the heart of Bavaria.  It was refreshing to have everyone at the resort speak English after so many language barriers in so many countries.  It was, in one word, easy, and a nice change of pace for the weary travelers!

Buildings painted with murals and adorned with beasts and flowers.  Provincial or charming?

John:           “Garmisch was pretty, but I wasn’t a huge fan, as it was too provincial for my tastes. Although I really enjoyed the food there! I got divine chocolate gelato and some more German potato salad. I also got a traditional bier stein. That was really cool.  

     We saw some of Crazy King Ludwig’s castle. He was quite the… interesting… guy. The Linderhof grounds and grotto were especially beautiful. Neuschwanstein was the most potent example of craziness I’ve ever seen. The guy decorated his walls with pictures from Wagner operas, very eccentric. It was a beautiful and very interesting visit I probably won’t forget.”

Yes, we bought Dirndls.  How could I refuse, they look so cute!

We rode a gondola to the top of the Alpspitze (8,622 feet), which is near Germany’s highest mountain, the Zugspitze (9,718 feet).   The summit offers a breathtaking view of Garmisch-Partenkirchen.

The hills are alive with the sound of William...

And the beauty of Ellie.

My sweet brother - always so patient and kind to his "younger" sister.

     We certainly were not disappointed, and we have the pictures to prove it. (I would like to mention a certain child of mine was terrified of “heights” and refused to explore or wander around the top of this mountain.  It did not matter what I said, the child did not believe it was safe.  I did not know a fear of heights could exist in this way.  Now you know it is possible too!) 

Hohneschwangau up close.

      Less than 2 hours from Munich is a treasure trove of castles.  King Ludwig, the Bavarian king, was just 19 when he was crowned in 1845.  His extravagance and romanticism earned him the title “Mad King Ludwig.”  He was a prolific castle builder, and built several during his short reign.  His most famous, Neuschwanstein was the inspiration for the Disney castle and logo.  He was also considered “mad” because he chose to escape to the peace and comfort of Hohenschwangau, his boyhood home, as well as the Linderhof, instead of dealing with the politics in Munich.  He truly created and lived in a dream world instead of reality.

Ludwig's boyhood home, Hohenschwangau, as seen from Neuschwanstein.

He ruled Bavaria for 23 years until his death (under suspicious circumstances; his family has kept the records sealed) in 1886. His best friends were romantic artists — like the great composer Richard Wagner (“Ride of the Valkyrie”) whom Ludwig idolized.  

     The exquisite Linderhof is surrounded by fountains and sculpted, Italian-style gardens.  King Ludwig lived much of his last eight years at Linderhof. Frustrated by the limits of being a constitutional monarch, he retreated here, inhabiting a private fantasy world.  He lived as a royal hermit; his dinner table — pre-set with dishes and food — rose from the kitchen below into his dining room so he could eat alone.

A perfect place for the cousins to take a break.

     Beyond the palace is Ludwig’s grotto, a private theater for the reclusive king to enjoy his beloved Wagnerian operas — he was usually the sole member of the audience. The grotto features a waterfall, fake stalactites, and a swan boat floating on an artificial lake. The first electricity in Bavaria was generated here, to change the colors of the stage lights and to power Ludwig’s fountain and wave machine.

Inside the grotto, it was large and unique and incomprehensible.  Who builds this?

Ellie:        “I have to add Garmisch to my favorites list- it really was spectacular. We took a gondola up to the top of the Alpspitze and enjoyed the beautiful sights (and SNOW!). Mom took Leah and I dirndl—which is the traditional German dress--shopping. I love the dirndl I got; it makes me feel like a true German! 

On my birthday we went to the Linderhof. What better way to spend a birthday than touring a beautiful and elaborate castle and grounds? I think it has been my favorite palace so far. King Ludwig was a total nutter, even though his grotto was so cool. Who else has portraits of other guys’ mistresses hung up on his wall? Not to mention the swan obsession…

We went to Neuschwanstein the next day. It is the inspiration behind the Disney castle! (Except it wasn’t blue L) I liked how he built the castle into the side of a mountain. The view was spectacular from the castle as well as the bridge. I hope those two guys on the bridge stay roomies and bros for life, like they said.”

My refined children waltzing in the gardens.

Neuschwanstein looks medieval, but is only about as old as the Eiffel Tower. Built in the late 1800s, it's a textbook example of the Romantic style popular at that time.  The castle's interior is decorated with misty medieval themes — brave knights, fair maidens, and scenes from Wagnerian operas.  Ludwig personified this Romantic age. Longing for the natural beauty and emotion of an earlier time, he built his medieval fantasy on the hilltop not for defensive reasons, but because he liked the view.

The iconic Neuschwanstein as seen from Ludwig's bridge nearby.

Just a few months after he moved into Neuschwanstein, which was only one third finished and still is, Ludwig — who was planning to build an even more extravagant castle — was declared mentally unfit to rule Bavaria. Two days later, he was found dead in a lake. People still debate whether it was murder or suicide. Within six weeks of his funeral, tourists were paying to see the castles — and they're still coming.

A beautiful shot from the bridge.

You cannot take a bad picture of this castle.

Leah:        “Garmisch was so much fun! I got to go dirndl shopping with my mom and Ellie, the one I got was super pretty, not to mention how German I look in it… The Alps were really pretty and HIGH!

I got really good cinnamon gelato after we went to the Linderhof palace. The Linderhof palace was one of my favorite palaces except for the fact it was built by mad King Ludwig II. The gardens were amazing. The palace was his summer get-away and so it was super tiny compared to his other palaces! The grotto was beautiful, but super cold on a very hot summer day.

A crazy man built Schloss Neuschwanstein, can you guess whom? Yes, ANOTHER one of King Ludwig’s castles. It would be a nice castle to live in if he didn’t build it. He had a strange obsession with swans, peacocks, Versailles, and mistresses of Versailles. Weird guy, huh? Oh, he also liked Richard Wagner. Ludwig never married, can you guess why?” (PS Leah wrote this alone.  I was curious why she thought he never married.  She innocently responded, "He was crazy, who would want to marry him?!"  I thought she had picked up additional information from the tour that is rumored to be true, but she must have missed it. Phew!  Glad she is not writing about such things at the age of 9.)

Photographic contraband provided by Geneva.  The concert hall of Neuschwanstein.

William:    “I liked Neuschanstein; it was very beautiful.  King Ludwig was very crazy.  It was fun riding up to the Alpspitze in the gondola.  We had a very pretty view!  

     I also liked the traditional German clothes we bought.  I now have a shirt, vest and hat.  I really wanted a pair of Leder Hosen (the traditional German leather pants), and even tried some on, but my mom said “no” since she does not think I would want to wear them in America (I think she is right).  The funniest part was that I kept calling them a Dirndl, which is the dress my sister’s were getting.  I just could not seem to remember the word Leder Hosen!  The vest and hat are my favorites, and I have already enjoyed wearing my hat with my cousins, since they have one too.”